What Is Tea-Undecylenoyl Hydrolyzed Collagen?
Tea-Undecylenoyl Hydrolyzed Collagen is a specialty form of collagen that has been broken down into smaller, water-soluble fragments then bonded with undecylenic acid and neutralized with triethanolamine. The collagen usually comes from fish or bovine sources, which are cleaned and enzymatically hydrolyzed to create short peptide chains. These peptides are reacted with 10-undecenoyl chloride, a fatty acid derivative obtained from castor oil, to give the material a light oil-loving tail. Finally triethanolamine is added to create a stable, skin-friendly salt.
The idea of pairing collagen peptides with fatty acids emerged in the late 1990s as chemists sought to make collagen more surface-active so it could cleanse and condition at the same time. Tea-Undecylenoyl Hydrolyzed Collagen first showed up in premium hair masks and anti-aging creams in the early 2000s and has since spread to mainstream shampoos, micellar cleansers and leave-on treatments.
You are most likely to spot this ingredient in shampoos, scalp tonics, clarifying face washes, sheet masks, lightweight moisturizers and multi-tasking anti-aging serums. Its dual water-and-oil affinity lets it blend well into both rinse-off and leave-on products.
Tea-Undecylenoyl Hydrolyzed Collagen’s Cosmetic Benefits/Uses
This ingredient serves several roles at once which is why formulators like using it in compact, all-in-one products.
- Anti-Seborrheic: Helps calm excess oil production on scalp and skin promoting a fresher look and reducing greasy buildup
- Antistatic: Tames flyaways by neutralizing static charges on hair fibers leaving strands smoother and easier to manage
- Cleansing: Acts as a mild surfactant that lifts dirt sweat and leftover styling products without stripping natural moisture
- Hair Conditioning: Deposits collagen peptides that coat and lubricate the cuticle improving softness shine and combability
- Skin Conditioning: Forms a light breathable film that helps skin retain water giving a plumper more supple feel
Who Can Use Tea-Undecylenoyl Hydrolyzed Collagen
This ingredient is generally well tolerated by most skin types. Oily and combination skin often appreciate its mild sebum balancing effect while dry or mature skin enjoy the light film it leaves that helps lock in moisture. Sensitive skin users usually do fine with it because the collagen peptides are soothing, yet those with a known fish or bovine allergy should avoid it since the source material typically comes from those animals.
Because the collagen is animal derived the ingredient is not suitable for strict vegans. Lacto-ovo vegetarians who avoid meat but accept animal by-products may feel comfortable using it though personal ethics vary.
Available safety data does not flag any special concerns for pregnant or breastfeeding women. Still this is not medical advice and anyone who is expecting or nursing should show the full ingredient list of any product to their healthcare provider to be extra safe.
The molecule itself does not increase the skin’s sensitivity to sunlight, so it is not considered photosensitizing. It also plays nicely with most other common cosmetic ingredients and can be layered without special rules.
Potential Side Effects/Adverse Reactions
Responses to topical Tea-Undecylenoyl Hydrolyzed Collagen vary from person to person. The points below outline potential issues, but they are unlikely for the average user when the ingredient is formulated correctly.
- Allergic reaction in individuals sensitive to fish or bovine proteins
- Mild redness or itching on very reactive skin
- Stinging if applied to broken or freshly exfoliated skin
- Scalp buildup or heaviness when overused in leave-on hair products
- Eye irritation if the product is accidentally rubbed into the eyes
If any of these effects occur discontinue use and consult a qualified healthcare professional.
Comedogenic Rating
Rating: 1/5
Tea-Undecylenoyl Hydrolyzed Collagen is largely water soluble thanks to its peptide backbone and the neutralizing action of triethanolamine. Although it carries a short fatty acid tail, the chain length is modest and the molecule stays surface active rather than settling deep in pores. As a result it is unlikely to clog pores for most users.
Suitable for acne-prone skin, though individual responses can vary.
Finished formulas still matter: pairings with heavy oils or waxes could raise the overall pore-clogging potential even if the collagen derivative itself is low risk.
Summary
Tea-Undecylenoyl Hydrolyzed Collagen works as a cleanser, conditioner and oil balancer. Its peptide portion draws in water and forms a light film that smooths hair cuticles and softens skin while the undecylenoyl tail helps lift away dirt and excess sebum. This dual nature lets formulators replace multiple raw materials with a single multi-tasker.
It pops up in mid to high tier shampoos, sheet masks and gel creams but is not yet a household name, partly because it costs more than standard surfactants and plant proteins.
Current safety data shows a low irritation profile with the main caveat being animal sourcing allergies. As with any new product, try a small patch first to rule out personal sensitivity.