What Is Tetracarboxymethyl Lauroyl Dipeptide-12?
Tetracarboxymethyl Lauroyl Dipeptide-12 is a lab-made peptide that links a short chain of two amino acids with lauric acid, then adds four carboxymethyl groups for extra water friendliness. This blend of a fatty tail and charged groups lets the molecule sit comfortably at the skin’s surface while still dissolving well in water-based formulas. First developed in the early 2010s, it grew out of research looking for gentle peptide alternatives to traditional conditioning agents. The ingredient is produced through solid-phase peptide synthesis, followed by attachment of the lauroyl group and controlled carboxymethylation. After purification the finished powder is added to cosmetic bases. You will most often see it in lightweight moisturizers, anti-aging serums, eye creams, sheet masks and leave-on treatments that aim to leave skin feeling soft and smooth.
Tetracarboxymethyl Lauroyl Dipeptide-12’s Cosmetic Benefits/Uses
The main role of Tetracarboxymethyl Lauroyl Dipeptide-12 in skincare is skin conditioning, meaning it helps keep the surface of the skin feeling soft, supple and healthy looking. By forming a breathable, moisture-friendly film it can improve skin’s texture, boost hydration retention and leave a silky after-feel without heaviness or grease.
Who Can Use Tetracarboxymethyl Lauroyl Dipeptide-12
Most skin types, including dry, normal, combination and oily, can use this peptide without trouble. Its light texture and water loving design mean it seldom feels heavy or occlusive. Sensitive skin users often do well with it because it does not contain common irritants or perfumes. Those with very reactive or damaged skin should still proceed with care, as any new ingredient can cause a flare if the skin barrier is already compromised.
The compound is made in a lab from plant derived amino acids and fatty acids, so it is suitable for vegans and vegetarians. No animal sourced materials or testing are involved in its standard production.
Current data shows no special risk for pregnant or breastfeeding women when used on the skin in ordinary cosmetic amounts. This is not medical advice; anyone who is pregnant or nursing should confirm any new skincare step with a qualified health professional to be safe.
Tetracarboxymethyl Lauroyl Dipeptide-12 does not increase photosensitivity. Daily sunscreen is still advised, but the peptide itself will not make skin more prone to sunburn.
Potential Side Effects/Adverse Reactions
Reactions to topical Tetracarboxymethyl Lauroyl Dipeptide-12 vary from person to person. The following list covers possible but uncommon effects when the ingredient is used in a properly formulated product.
- Mild redness or warmth
- Temporary itching or tingling
- Very slight stinging on compromised skin
- Rare allergic contact dermatitis
If any of these effects appear and do not settle quickly, stop use and seek advice from a health professional.
Comedogenic Rating
Rating: 1 (very low)
Tetracarboxymethyl Lauroyl Dipeptide-12 carries only one small fatty chain and four water loving groups, so it blends into water-based formulas rather than sitting in oily plugs inside pores. Its film is light breathable and easily rinsed, which keeps pore clogging risk minimal.
Suitable for acne-prone or breakout-prone skin.
If a product pairs this peptide with heavy butters or waxes the overall formula may still block pores, so always check the full ingredient list.
Summary
Tetracarboxymethyl Lauroyl Dipeptide-12 is a lab crafted dipeptide that conditions skin by forming a thin moisture-friendly film, smoothing texture and helping water stay where it belongs. The balance of a gentle fatty tail with charged groups lets it spread evenly without feeling greasy.
It is not yet a household name, but interest is growing as brands look for mild lightweight alternatives to traditional conditioners. You will mainly find it in higher-end serums and eye creams, though more mid-range lines are starting to pick it up.
Current safety data shows a very low rate of irritation or pore blockage, and no known long-term concerns at typical cosmetic levels. As with any new product it is wise to patch test first to make sure your skin agrees.