Tetracarboxymethyl Naringeninchalcone: What Is It, Cosmetic Uses, Benefits & Side Effects

Curious about this ingredient? In this article we're explaining exactly what it is and why it's used within cosmetic formulations.
Updated on: June 30, 2025
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We verify all information on this page using publicly available nomenclature standards from The Personal Care Products Council (PCPC), the European Commission's CosIng database and documentation provided directly by ingredient manufacturers. Our analysis is based on technical data from these sources to ensure accuracy and reliability.

What Is Tetracarboxymethyl Naringeninchalcone?

Tetracarboxymethyl Naringeninchalcone is a lab-crafted derivative of naringenin, a flavonoid naturally present in grapefruit and other citrus peels. Chemists attach four carboxymethyl groups to the original plant molecule to improve its water solubility and keep it stable when exposed to light and air. The process starts with naringenin extracted from citrus by-products, which is then converted into a chalcone form before undergoing a controlled reaction with chloroacetic acid. The result is a highly dispersible powder that blends smoothly into water-based or gel-type formulas.

The ingredient first drew interest from cosmetic researchers in the early 2010s as brands searched for plant-inspired actives that would hydrate without leaving a greasy film. Its gentle profile and reliable shelf stability helped it move quickly from lab testing to commercial launch. Today you are most likely to see Tetracarboxymethyl Naringeninchalcone in hydrating face masks, lightweight daily moisturizers, soothing after-sun gels and multi-step anti-aging routines where it partners with antioxidants and humectants.

Tetracarboxymethyl Naringeninchalcone’s Cosmetic Benefits/Uses

The main role of Tetracarboxymethyl Naringeninchalcone in skincare is skin conditioning. By binding water and forming a delicate film on the surface, it helps keep the complexion soft, smooth and supple. Formulators value it for delivering a refreshed feel without clogging pores or leaving shine, making it suitable for everything from dewy serums to oil-free lotions.

Who Can Use Tetracarboxymethyl Naringeninchalcone

This ingredient suits most skin types, including dry, combination and oily skin, because it hydrates without adding oil or leaving a heavy film. Sensitive skin usually tolerates it well thanks to its mild nature, though a very small percentage of people who react to citrus-derived actives could notice mild redness.

Tetracarboxymethyl Naringeninchalcone is synthesized from plant material and contains no animal substances, so it is considered vegan and vegetarian friendly. No animal testing is required for its production in regions that follow cruelty-free standards.

Current data shows no specific risks for pregnant or breastfeeding women when the ingredient is used in normal cosmetic concentrations. This is not medical advice and anyone who is expecting or nursing should ask a qualified healthcare provider before starting a new skincare product, just to be safe.

The molecule does not make skin more sensitive to sunlight, so it is not classified as a photosensitizer. Daily sunscreen is still recommended as part of a general skincare routine.

Potential Side Effects/Adverse Reactions

Reactions to topical Tetracarboxymethyl Naringeninchalcone differ from person to person. The effects listed below are potential outcomes and are unlikely for most users when the ingredient is properly formulated.

  • Mild redness or warmth immediately after application
  • Transient stinging on very compromised or freshly exfoliated skin
  • Allergic contact dermatitis in individuals sensitive to citrus-derived compounds
  • Eye irritation if the product is accidentally rubbed into the eyes
  • Formula instability leading to color change or odor when combined with highly acidic products, which can reduce performance

If any persistent discomfort or unusual reaction occurs stop using the product and consult a healthcare professional.

Comedogenic Rating

Rating: 0 / 5. Tetracarboxymethyl Naringeninchalcone is highly water soluble, contains no heavy oils or waxes and does not build up inside pores. Its film-forming action is thin and breathable so it is unlikely to trap sebum or debris. This makes it a good choice for people who are prone to acne or breakouts. Unless the finished formula also includes pore-clogging ingredients, it should not contribute to comedones.

Because it is usually paired with light gels and oil-free lotions, the overall risk of pore congestion remains low. If it appears in a richer cream the final product’s comedogenicity will depend more on the base oils and butters than on this active itself.

Summary

Tetracarboxymethyl Naringeninchalcone conditions skin by attracting water and laying down a soft breathable film that helps keep moisture in. Its stable plant-derived structure lets it perform these tasks without oxidation so it maintains effectiveness over time.

While not yet a household name it is gaining traction in hydrating masks, after-sun gels and lightweight moisturizers because it offers a fresh feel without shine. Brands looking for vegan friendly actives with good shelf life often reach for it as an alternative to heavier emollients.

Current data points to a strong safety profile with very low irritation risk. As with any new cosmetic ingredient it is smart to do a quick patch test when trying a product that contains it, especially if you have reactive skin.

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