What Is Tetradecyleicosanoic Acid?
Tetradecyleicosanoic Acid is a long chain fatty acid that chemists created to help give skincare and makeup the right feel and stability. The molecule contains twenty carbon atoms with a fourteen-carbon side group, which makes it heavier and more solid than many natural oils. Although small amounts of similar fatty acids appear in some seeds and waxes, the grade used in cosmetics is almost always made in the lab. Manufacturers usually start with vegetable oils such as palm or coconut, split them into shorter pieces, then build the chain back up and refine it until they get a pure, skin-safe powder or wax.
The ingredient began to show up in labs in the late 1990s when formulators looked for alternatives to animal-derived waxes. Its ability to thicken formulas without leaving a greasy after-feel quickly made it popular in modern creams and lotions. Today you will find it in moisturizers, sunscreens, anti-aging serums, overnight masks and even some cream foundations where a silky texture and long shelf life are important.
Tetradecyleicosanoic Acid’s Cosmetic Benefits/Uses
This ingredient plays two key roles in a formula
- Emulsion stabilising: Helps oil and water stay mixed so a cream does not split or form pools on the surface. This keeps the product smooth from the first use to the last squeeze and protects the active ingredients that sit in the emulsion
- Viscosity controlling: Thickens the blend just enough to give it a plush, cushiony feel. A stable thickness means the product spreads evenly, stays where you put it and feels more luxurious on the skin
Who Can Use Tetradecyleicosanoic Acid
Thanks to its gentle, inert nature, Tetradecyleicosanoic Acid suits most skin types including dry, normal and combination skin. People with very oily or extremely acne prone skin may find that the additional thickness it lends to a formula feels too rich and could potentially trap excess sebum, so lighter textures may be preferable in those cases.
The ingredient is synthesized from plant oils and contains no animal derived compounds which makes it suitable for both vegans and vegetarians.
Current safety data shows no evidence of hormonal activity or systemic absorption, so products containing this fatty acid are generally considered low risk for women who are pregnant or breastfeeding. This is not medical advice and expecting or nursing mothers should still clear any new skincare product with their physician just to be safe.
Tetradecyleicosanoic Acid is not known to cause photosensitivity, meaning it will not make skin more prone to sunburn. It also carries no fragrance and is free of common allergens such as gluten and soy, so it rarely conflicts with other routine staples.
Potential Side Effects/Adverse Reactions
Reactions to topical Tetradecyleicosanoic Acid vary from person to person. The points below outline potential but uncommon issues. When the ingredient is used at appropriate levels in a well formulated product, most users will experience none of these problems.
- Mild skin redness or warmth if an individual is sensitive to fatty acids
- Temporary clogged pores in very oily or congestion prone skin when used in a heavy or occlusive formula
- Contact dermatitis in the rare event of an allergy to a related processing aid or impurity
- Watery eyes or irritation if the ingredient makes contact with the eye area in high concentration products like thick balms
If you experience any of the above reactions, discontinue use and seek advice from a healthcare professional or dermatologist.
Comedogenic Rating
Rating: 2/5
Tetradecyleicosanoic Acid is a long chain saturated fatty acid that stays mostly on the surface of skin rather than sinking deep into pores. Its wax like structure helps thicken a formula but it is less greasy and has a lower melting point than classic pore cloggers such as isopropyl myristate which is why the rating sits at a mild 2. When blended at low to moderate levels in a balanced emulsion it rarely causes breakouts yet in very rich balms or creams it can trap sebum and dead cells if your skin is already oily.
This means the ingredient is generally acceptable for people who are prone to acne though extremely oily or congested skin types may prefer lighter gels or emulsions.
Comedogenicity can be influenced by the full formula so how the acid is paired with other waxes oils or film formers will affect the final rating.
Summary
Tetradecyleicosanoic Acid stabilises emulsions and controls viscosity giving lotions and creams a smooth cushiony feel that stays consistent from the first pump to the last. Its long carbon chain sits at the oil water interface keeping droplets from separating while adding structure so the product neither drips nor feels greasy.
The ingredient is a niche but valued workhorse mostly used by formulators who want plant derived alternatives to traditional waxes. You will see it pop up in mid to high end moisturisers sunscreens and colour cosmetics but it is still far from a household name.
Current research shows it is low risk non sensitising and free of hormonal activity so most people can use it safely. As with any new skincare step a simple patch test helps you spot rare sensitivities before applying the product to your whole face.