What Is Tetradecyloctadecyl Myristate?
Tetradecyloctadecyl Myristate is an ester created by joining myristic acid, a fatty acid found in coconut oil and nutmeg, with a long-chain alcohol. The result is a soft wax-like substance that blends smoothly into creams and lotions. Chemists first explored this type of ester in the late 20th century while looking for plant-based alternatives to mineral oil. By tweaking the fatty acid and alcohol chain lengths they discovered a material that adds thickness without feeling greasy, which quickly caught the eye of cosmetic formulators.
Manufacturing starts with purified myristic acid that is reacted with tetradecyloctadecanol under heat and a food-grade catalyst. The mixture is then cooled filtered and milled into fine pellets or flakes. Because the raw materials come mainly from coconut and palm kernels many suppliers label it as a naturally derived ingredient.
You will most often spot Tetradecyloctadecyl Myristate in moisturizers, face primers, solid or stick foundations, sun care products, body butters, sheet mask essences and anti-aging night creams. Its texture-enhancing properties also make it useful in high-coverage concealers and creamy lipsticks.
Tetradecyloctadecyl Myristate’s Cosmetic Benefits/Uses
This multitasking ester supports both the feel and performance of many formulas.
- Binding: Helps powders and oils stick together so pressed products like blushes stay intact and don’t crumble
- Emulsion Stabilising: Keeps water and oil phases from separating which extends shelf life and maintains a smooth texture
- Film Forming: Leaves a light flexible layer on the skin that locks in moisture and can improve wear time of makeup
- Opacifying: Adds a soft-focus effect that masks minor skin imperfections and boosts coverage in tinted products
- Skin Conditioning: Softens and smooths the skin surface giving a silky after-feel without clogging pores
Who Can Use Tetradecyloctadecyl Myristate
This ester is generally well tolerated by most skin types. Dry and normal complexions tend to enjoy its smoothing feel while combination skin benefits from the light occlusive layer that prevents moisture loss without heaviness. Very oily or acne prone users may want to check how high it appears on an ingredient list because large amounts of waxy emollients can sometimes sit on the surface and contribute to congestion.
The raw materials are sourced from coconut oil and palm kernels so the finished ingredient contains no animal derivatives. That makes it suitable for both vegetarians and vegans provided the finished cosmetic has not been tested on animals.
Current safety data shows no reason to avoid Tetradecyloctadecyl Myristate during pregnancy or while breastfeeding. Still this is not medical advice and anyone who is pregnant or nursing should review all skincare products with a qualified healthcare provider.
The molecule does not absorb UV light or alter the skin’s response to sunlight so it is not known to cause photosensitivity. Because it forms a soft breathable film it can even help protect skin from harsh wind or low humidity.
Potential Side Effects/Adverse Reactions
Reactions to topical Tetradecyloctadecyl Myristate differ from one person to another. The points below list potential issues that might occur yet they remain uncommon for most well formulated products.
- Mild skin irritation such as redness or itching in sensitive individuals
- Contact dermatitis triggered by an allergy to fatty alcohols or myristic acid
- Clogged pores or breakouts when used in very high concentrations on oily acne prone skin
- Eye stinging if the product unintentionally migrates into the eyes
If any of these effects develop stop using the product and seek advice from a healthcare professional or dermatologist.
Comedogenic Rating
Rating: 3 out of 5
Tetradecyloctadecyl Myristate is built from myristic acid, a fatty acid that can be pore clogging when used on its own. In this ester form the molecule is bulkier and less able to sink deeply into follicles, so its comedogenic potential is lower than pure myristic acid yet still worth noting. Most formulations include it at modest levels where it simply smooths texture and locks in moisture. Because of this middle-ground score it is usually fine for balanced or dry skin but may pose a risk for those who break out easily, especially if it appears near the top of an ingredient list.
The rating can vary slightly depending on the overall formula. When paired with light silicones or quick-drying oils the chance of congestion goes down, while very rich balms that layer multiple waxy esters could nudge the rating upward.
Summary
Tetradecyloctadecyl Myristate acts as a binder that keeps pressed powders intact, an emulsion stabiliser that prevents separation, a film former that seals in hydration, an opacifier that blurs imperfections and a skin conditioner that leaves a silky after-feel. It achieves these jobs because its long fatty chains melt smoothly at skin temperature then set into a flexible, breathable layer.
The ingredient is something of a supporting actor rather than a headline star. It is common enough in moisturisers, primers and stick foundations but not a buzzworthy name that shoppers search for by itself.
Safety studies and decades of use show it is generally low risk. Most people can use products containing this ester without issues, though anyone with very oily or reactive skin might prefer lighter alternatives. As with any new cosmetic, doing a patch test on a small area first is a smart extra step.