What Is Tetrasodium Dicarboxyethyl Stearyl Sulfosuccinamate?
Tetrasodium Dicarboxyethyl Stearyl Sulfosuccinamate is a synthetic ingredient derived from stearyl alcohol, a fatty alcohol typically sourced from plant oils such as coconut or palm. Chemically it is the tetrasodium salt of an aspartic acid derivative, which means four sodium ions are attached to help the molecule dissolve easily in water. Its structure features a long stearyl chain that loves oil and several charged groups that love water, giving the ingredient a built-in ability to bridge the two.
The compound was introduced in the mid-20th century during a surge of interest in milder surfactants that could replace harsher soaps. Cosmetic chemists discovered that modifying natural fatty chains with aspartic acid and sulfosuccinate groups produced a cleanser that generated a soft luxurious lather without stripping skin or hair. Since then it has appeared in countless personal care formulas as consumers demanded gentler cleansing options.
Commercial production starts with stearyl alcohol that is first reacted with maleic anhydride to form a half-ester. The intermediate is then linked to L-aspartic acid, sulfonated to increase water solubility and finally neutralized with sodium hydroxide to give the stable tetrasodium salt. The finished powder or paste is easily blended into water-based formulations.
You will most often find Tetrasodium Dicarboxyethyl Stearyl Sulfosuccinamate in facial cleansers, body washes, baby shampoos, bubble baths, makeup removers, micellar waters, exfoliating scrubs and some sulfate-free hair care products. It is occasionally included in cream or lotion cleansers where a touch of foam is desired without upsetting the emulsion.
Tetrasodium Dicarboxyethyl Stearyl Sulfosuccinamate’s Cosmetic Benefits/Uses
This multitasking ingredient improves both the performance and sensory feel of many rinse-off and leave-on products.
- Cleansing: Lifts away dirt, oil and makeup while producing a mild creamy foam that feels gentle on skin and hair
- Emulsifying: Helps mix oil and water phases so formulas stay uniform, reducing separation in creams and cleansing milks
- Hydrotrope: Enhances the solubility of other ingredients which allows formulators to use higher fragrance levels or botanical extracts without cloudiness
Who Can Use Tetrasodium Dicarboxyethyl Stearyl Sulfosuccinamate
This gentle surfactant suits nearly every skin type. Oily and combination skin benefit from its effective yet mild cleansing action while dry or mature skin appreciate that it removes grime without stripping essential lipids. Sensitive skin usually tolerates it well because the molecule is less irritating than many traditional sulfates. Only individuals with a known sulfosuccinate allergy or severely compromised skin barriers may want to approach with caution as they could experience stinging or redness.
The ingredient is typically sourced from plant oils so it is considered suitable for vegetarians and vegans. A minority of suppliers still use animal derived stearyl alcohol so those following a strict lifestyle may wish to confirm the origin with the brand.
No studies have flagged concerns for pregnant or breastfeeding women when this ingredient is used topically and rinsed off. It is not known to penetrate deeply or act as an endocrine disruptor. That said this is not medical advice and anyone who is pregnant or nursing should clear any skincare product with a healthcare professional just to be safe.
Tetrasodium Dicarboxyethyl Stearyl Sulfosuccinamate does not make skin more sensitive to sunlight and it has no reported interactions with common actives like retinol or vitamin C. It is also color safe for dyed hair.
Potential Side Effects/Adverse Reactions
Responses to topical use of Tetrasodium Dicarboxyethyl Stearyl Sulfosuccinamate differ from person to person. The points below outline potential side effects although most users experience none when the ingredient is properly formulated and used as directed.
- Mild skin irritation such as redness or itching, usually in people with pre existing sensitivity
- Transient eye stinging if a cleanser gets into the eyes
- Dryness or tightness after very frequent washing, especially in low humidity climates
- Rare allergic contact dermatitis presenting as a rash or small bumps
If any of these reactions occur discontinue use and consult a healthcare professional if symptoms persist or worsen
Comedogenic Rating
Rating: 0 – 1
Tetrasodium Dicarboxyethyl Stearyl Sulfosuccinamate is highly water soluble and is almost always used in rinse-off formulas. Its structure lets it disperse quickly in water so it does not linger on skin or create an occlusive film that could trap oil and debris in pores. Available data and anecdotal reports show virtually no link between this surfactant and clogged pores which is why it earns a very low rating.
Because of this, the ingredient is generally suitable for acne-prone or breakout-prone skin.
As with most surfactants, concentration and the overall formula matter: a poorly balanced cleanser could still leave skin tight which may prompt rebound oiliness in some people, but the molecule itself is unlikely to be the culprit.
Summary
Tetrasodium Dicarboxyethyl Stearyl Sulfosuccinamate acts as a mild cleanser, emulsifier and hydrotrope. Its long stearyl tail grabs on to oils and makeup while the charged aspartate and sulfosuccinate groups bind to water, allowing grime to rinse cleanly away. Those same polar groups help keep oil-in-water systems stable and boost the solubility of fragrances or botanical extracts.
It is a steady but unsung ingredient: not as famous as sulfates or trendy plant surfactants yet found in plenty of sulfate-free shampoos, baby washes and gentle facial cleansers because chemists appreciate its low irritation profile and creamy lather.
Safety reviews rate it as low risk with minimal irritation or sensitisation potential when used at typical levels. Still, skin can react unpredictably so it is always smart to patch test any new product containing this surfactant before fully committing.