Introduction
NIOD rarely needs an introduction for skincare devotees, but for anyone who has missed the memo it is the quietly cerebral sibling in the Deciem family, more lab coat than lipstick and always ready to drop an ingredients list that reads like a pharmacology textbook. When NIOD launches something new, ears tend to perk up.
The latest curiosity is Myrrh Clay, a name that sounds part ancient scripture part backyard pottery class. According to the brand the rinse off masque borrows know-how from Ayurvedic, Unani and Chinese traditions to tackle signs of aging with a quick hit of visible firmness. The hero resin is myrrh, partnered with strawberry leaf polyphenols and Wu Zhu Yu, all nestled in a nutrient-rich clay base that promises to tighten skin without leaving that tell-tale film modern firming masks often do.
I spent a solid two weeks slotting this masque into my Sunday and midweek routines, timing the 15-minute sessions and scrutinising every post-rinse reveal to see whether the ancient-meets-modern formula earns its place in a crowded category or merely adds another clever-sounding acronym to the shelf.
What is Myrrh Clay?
Myrrh Clay sits in the wash off mask category, meaning you apply it, let it work for a set time then rinse it away rather than leaving it on overnight. Wash off masks serve as short, intensive treatments that can deliver a quick cosmetic benefit without the risk of prolonged exposure to potent actives. They are often chosen for an instant pick me up, especially before events when you want skin to look a touch fresher.
This formula combines purified myrrh resin with strawberry leaf polyphenols and Wu Zhu Yu extract in a base of peat and Multani Mitti clay. The blend draws on principles from Ayurveda, Unani and traditional Chinese medicine but applies them to a modern goal: visibly firmer skin. The clay base offers the familiar tightening sensation common to masks, while the resin and plant extracts claim to support a more elastic, toned surface once the product is washed away.
Use is straightforward. On clean dry skin you spread a thin layer, wait fifteen minutes then rinse with warm water. The brand suggests limiting application to once a week and patch testing first if your skin is easily unsettled. The masque is positioned as suitable for all skin types though, as with any treatment, sensitive users may want to tread carefully.
Did it work?
In the spirit of rigorous home lab testing I parked my usual wash off mask for a few days before starting Myrrh Clay, which felt very scientific and only a little dramatic. Four sessions across 14 days seemed a fair window to judge whether this ancient resin could outsmart gravity.
Session one was textbook: thin layer, faint herbal aroma, gentle tightening as the minutes ticked by. The rinse revealed skin that looked marginally smoother around the nasolabial folds, like someone had nudged the sharpen tool in Photoshop but only to 15 percent. By morning that pep had mostly faded though my face did seem marginally perkier than baseline.
By the second application I noticed a consistent tingle on the high points of my cheeks. It never escalated into irritation but served as a reminder that something active was happening. Again the post rinse firmness registered, especially along the jawline, yet the effect felt cosmetic and short lived rather than deeply corrective.
Uses three and four told a similar story. Quick superficial lift, no residue film, zero breakouts. I did, however, clock a slight uptick in surface dryness on my drier cheek patches which meant I had to lean on a heavier night cream after each masque session. Photographically I could not capture any meaningful long term firmness and friends failed the blind test of guessing whether I had done anything different.
So did it deliver on its promise of visible firming? Yes, but only in that fleeting post mask window when you are still at the sink admiring your handiwork. Two weeks in I cannot say my skin looks fundamentally tighter and I would not retire my current lineup to make room for it. Still, for a quick pre event pick me up that smells pleasantly apothecary and rinses clean it has its charms.
Main ingredients explained
First up is the star resin, myrrh (Commiphora myrrha). In this formula the extract is purified then partnered with a delivery helper called hydroxypropyl cyclodextrin so its terpenoids and sesquiterpenes stay stable until they reach your skin. These compounds give the quick tightening you feel post rinse and bring moderate antioxidant backup. Myrrh essential oil has a light comedogenic rating of about 1 so most complexions will tolerate it well, but those prone to clogged pores should note that any rating above 0 means a theoretical chance of congestion.
Peat and Multani Mitti clay form the mineral base. Both are rich in humic substances that can bind impurities while the mask is on then whisk them away at the sink. Neither ingredient is comedogenic; in fact they are often used in acne protocols for their oil-absorbing talent. The slight earthy smell you pick up is the peat talking, not an added fragrance.
Strawberry leaf (Fragaria vesca) brings a shot of polyphenols, chiefly ellagic acid, which behaves as an antioxidant and mild astringent. You will not get exfoliation levels of acid here, more of a calming, free-radical mopping effect that helps the resin look less harsh on sensitive skin.
Wu Zhu Yu (Evodia rutaecarpa) is a traditional Chinese medicinal fruit valued for circulation support. Topically the alkaloid evodiamine can create a gentle warming or tingling sensation; that explains the buzz I felt on my cheekbones during round two. It is not irritation in the classic sense but anyone with reactive rosacea may want to do a patch test first.
The humectant roster includes glycerin, propanediol and a touch of pentylene glycol. These sit in the skin’s upper layers and keep the clay from pulling out every last drop of moisture. Support gums like carrageenan and acacia senegal give the mask its spreadable pudding texture. Carrageenan sometimes earns a comedogenic score of 2 in leave-on products yet its brief contact time here keeps the risk low.
Preservation relies on the phenoxyethanol and chlorphenesin duo, a common pairing that keeps microbes in check without formaldehyde donors. The formula contains no animal derivatives so it is suitable for vegans and vegetarians.
Pregnancy note: myrrh has a longstanding reputation for stimulating uterine contractions when ingested and essential oil safety texts advise avoiding high concentrations during pregnancy. Topical use in a wash-off mask is likely low risk yet caution is always better, so expectant or nursing users should ask their doctor before adding this to a routine.
One final thing worth flagging is the total absence of added fragrance. What you smell is the natural resin and peat, which NIOD deliberately left untouched to avoid sensitising perfume allergens. If you love a spa-like scent you may feel underwhelmed, if you want actives first you will probably appreciate the restraint.
What I liked/didn’t like
Here is the quick scorecard after four rendezvous with the masque.
What works well:
- Noticeable post-rinse tightening that flatters jawline and laugh lines for a few hours
- Rinses clean with zero tell-tale film so makeup can sit smoothly afterward
- Non-comedogenic clay base keeps breakouts at bay while absorbing midday shine
What to consider:
- Firming effect is fleeting so results may disappoint anyone hunting for lasting lift
- Can leave drier areas craving extra moisturizer, especially in colder months
- Sits in the higher price bracket for a once-a-week wash-off treatment
My final thoughts
After four rounds I feel I have given Myrrh Clay a fair audition alongside a wardrobe of other wash off masks I keep in rotation. Its quick hit of firmness does exactly what the brand hints at yet the effect is event-prep rather than long game. If you love the ritual of a weekly masque and want something that lifts laugh lines for a dinner out, it fits the bill. If you are chasing cumulative collagen-style change, you may find the glow dims too quickly to justify the investment. I give it 7/10: enjoyable chemistry lesson, solid short-term results, room for deeper impact.
The friend test? I would recommend it to pals who already exfoliate, hydrate and simply want an extra tightening flourish before occasions. I would steer budget-minded or very dry skin friends elsewhere since the transient payoff might not offset the price or the post-rinse thirst.
Speaking of elsewhere, a handful of masks have impressed me just as much, sometimes more. Deascal’s Pink Clay Glow Mask is an excellent all-rounder that exfoliates, clears pores and brightens in one go while remaining kind to every skin type and wallet. Innisfree’s Super Volcanic Pore Clay Mask delivers a deep-cleaning vacuum effect without over-stripping and is brilliant for combination complexions. Caudalie’s Instant Detox Mask offers a satisfying tightening sensation plus grape polyphenol antioxidants for a noticeably fresher look. Finally, for those who like their skincare to feel a bit like a coffee scrub in a forest, LUSH’s cult Mask of Magnaminty refreshes, decongests and leaves skin velvety in ten minutes flat.
Before you dash to the sink, a quick public service note: patch test any new mask on a discreet spot first (sorry for sounding like an over-protective parent). Remember too that masks give temporary boosts; consistent skincare and sun protection keep the long-term score. Enjoy the ritual, manage expectations and your face will thank you.