Thioctoyl Glycinamide: What Is It, Cosmetic Uses, Benefits & Side Effects

Curious about this ingredient? In this article we're explaining exactly what it is and why it's used within cosmetic formulations.
Updated on: June 30, 2025
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We verify all information on this page using publicly available nomenclature standards from The Personal Care Products Council (PCPC), the European Commission's CosIng database and documentation provided directly by ingredient manufacturers. Our analysis is based on technical data from these sources to ensure accuracy and reliability.

What Is Thioctoyl Glycinamide?

Thioctoyl Glycinamide is a lab made derivative of alpha lipoic acid, an antioxidant also known as thioctic acid, that has been joined with a simple amino compound called glycinamide. The pairing keeps much of the antioxidant character of alpha lipoic acid while making the molecule more water friendly, which helps it blend smoothly into creams and serums. It does not come from plants or animals; instead technicians create it through a controlled reaction that bonds purified alpha lipoic acid to glycinamide under gentle heat. The ingredient first drew interest in the late 1990s when makers of anti aging products looked for ways to harness alpha lipoic acid without its typical oily feel. Since then it has shown up in lightweight moisturizers, firming masks, eye creams, after sun gels and specialty treatments that target dull or stressed skin.

Thioctoyl Glycinamide’s Cosmetic Benefits/Uses

In formulas Thioctoyl Glycinamide serves mainly as a skin conditioning agent. It helps keep the surface soft, smooth and hydrated while supporting a fresh looking complexion. By improving the skin’s feel it can make a product seem richer without adding heavy oils or waxes, which is why formulators like it for both oil free lotions and more decadent creams.

Who Can Use Thioctoyl Glycinamide

Because it is lightweight and non greasy Thioctoyl Glycinamide suits most skin types including oily, dry, combination and sensitive. Its water friendly profile means it will not sit heavily on the surface or clog pores, making it a comfortable option even for acne-prone complexions. There are no known skin types that must actively avoid it unless an individual has a specific allergy to the ingredient.

The compound is synthesised entirely in the lab without animal derived raw materials so it is appropriate for both vegetarians and vegans. It is also a good fit for users seeking cruelty free formulations, provided the finished product has not been tested on animals.

No research flags particular concerns for pregnant or breastfeeding women when the ingredient is used topically in typical cosmetic amounts. That said this is not medical advice and anyone expecting or nursing should review any skincare product with a qualified healthcare provider to be on the safe side.

Thioctoyl Glycinamide does not increase photosensitivity so daytime use is acceptable. Standard daily sunscreen, however, remains essential for overall skin health.

Potential Side Effects/Adverse Reactions

Reactions to topical Thioctoyl Glycinamide can vary from person to person. The points below outline potential issues that could occur but they are uncommon for most users when the ingredient is included at appropriate cosmetic levels.

  • Mild redness or warmth upon application
  • Transient tingling or stinging in very reactive skin
  • Localised irritation if layered with high strength acids or retinoids
  • Rare allergic contact dermatitis presenting as itching, swelling or rash
  • Eye irritation if product migrates too close to the lash line

If any of these reactions develop discontinue use and seek guidance from a healthcare professional or dermatologist.

Comedogenic Rating

Rating: 0 / 5. Thioctoyl Glycinamide is highly water soluble and does not leave an occlusive film on the skin, so it is unable to trap debris inside pores or feed the kind of surface bacteria that trigger breakouts. Its lightweight nature and lack of oily residues place it firmly at the non-comedogenic end of the scale. Suitable for acne-prone or congestion-prone skin types. Because it is an antioxidant derivative, it may even help calm the look of stressed blemish-prone skin rather than aggravate it.

Summary

Thioctoyl Glycinamide functions primarily as a skin-conditioning agent, lending softness, suppleness and a refreshed feel without heaviness. By combining alpha lipoic acid’s antioxidant backbone with a water-loving glycinamide group, chemists created a molecule that slips easily into both light gels and richer creams. It is still a niche ingredient compared with mainstream hydrators like glycerin or hyaluronic acid, yet formulators who work with high performance antioxidant blends value its versatility and pleasant skin finish.

Overall safety records are positive, with low irritation potential at typical cosmetic use levels and no data suggesting photosensitivity or hormonal concerns. As with any new skincare ingredient a simple patch test is wise before full-face use to rule out personal sensitivities.

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