What Is Triethylhexyl Citrate?
Triethylhexyl Citrate is an oil-soluble ingredient derived from citric acid, a natural acid found in citrus fruits, and 2-ethylhexanol, an alcohol sourced from petrochemical or plant-based feedstocks. Chemically it is known as Tris(2-Ethylhexyl) 2-hydroxypropane-1,2,3-tricarboxylate, a clear almost odorless liquid with a smooth, velvety feel. First adopted by the plastics industry as a safer alternative to phthalates, it gained attention in the 1990s when formulators noticed its gentle skin feel and ability to keep products flexible. Manufacturing involves esterifying citric acid with 2-ethylhexanol under controlled heat then purifying the result to cosmetic grade.
Because it is lightweight yet cushiony, Triethylhexyl Citrate shows up in a wide range of leave-on and rinse-off products. You are likely to find it in sheet masks, hydrating moisturizers, lip balms, creamy foundations, anti-aging serums, sun care, hair styling creams and even nail polish where it helps keep the film from becoming brittle.
Triethylhexyl Citrate’s Cosmetic Benefits/Uses
In formulas this multitasker delivers several useful roles
- Plasticiser: Softens polymer films so makeup, sunscreens or nail lacquers stay flexible, resist cracking and feel more comfortable on skin or nails
- Skin Conditioning: Adds a silky touch while supporting the skin barrier which helps keep moisture in and leaves skin feeling smooth and supple
- Emollient: Spreads easily to fill in rough surface gaps providing an immediate softening effect that makes products like lotions and balms glide on effortlessly
Who Can Use Triethylhexyl Citrate
Thanks to its lightweight texture and low likelihood of clogging pores, Triethylhexyl Citrate is generally considered suitable for all skin types, including oily, combination, dry and even sensitive skin. It delivers slip without leaving a greasy residue, so people who shy away from heavier oils often tolerate it well. Those with extremely acne-prone skin should still pay attention to how the full formula feels on their skin because other ingredients, not Triethylhexyl Citrate itself, might tip a product into pore-clogging territory.
The ingredient is synthesised from citric acid and 2-ethylhexanol, neither of which is animal-derived, making it acceptable for vegans and vegetarians provided the finished product has not been tested on animals.
Current safety assessments show no evidence that topical Triethylhexyl Citrate poses a risk to pregnant or breastfeeding individuals. That said, this is not medical advice and anyone who is pregnant or nursing should review all skincare products with a qualified healthcare provider to be extra cautious.
Triethylhexyl Citrate does not increase the skin’s sensitivity to sunlight, so it is not considered a photosensitiser. It also plays well with most other cosmetic ingredients, meaning it is rarely a source of formulation conflicts.
Potential Side Effects/Adverse Reactions
Responses to any cosmetic ingredient can differ from person to person. The effects listed below are only potential outcomes; when used correctly in a well-formulated product most people will not experience them.
- Mild skin irritation in the form of redness or a stinging sensation, usually in individuals with very reactive or compromised skin barriers
- Contact dermatitis presenting as itching or rash in the rare event of an allergy to the ingredient itself or residual processing agents
- Breakouts or congestion for users whose skin is extremely prone to comedones, especially if the overall product is rich or occlusive
If irritation or any other negative reaction occurs stop using the product immediately and consult a healthcare professional
Comedogenic Rating
Rating: 1 / 5
Laboratory data and anecdotal use point to Triethylhexyl Citrate having a very low tendency to block pores. Its molecular structure is larger and more branched than common comedogenic oils which limits its ability to settle into follicles. In most product concentrations it spreads thinly and evaporates or absorbs without leaving a heavy film.
Because of this low rating it is generally considered suitable for acne-prone or breakout-prone skin, provided the rest of the formula is also non-comedogenic.
Keep in mind that final pore-clogging potential always depends on the entire ingredient mix and the user’s unique skin chemistry.
Summary
Triethylhexyl Citrate works as a plasticiser, skin conditioning agent and emollient. It softens polymer films so makeup, sunscreen or nail polish flex with the skin, cushions formulas to leave a silky afterfeel and fills surface gaps for instant smoothness.
While not a headline ingredient it is gaining popularity as brands move away from phthalates and look for lightweight non-greasy texturizers that play well with modern actives.
Current safety assessments find it non-sensitising, non-phototoxic and suitable for all skin types including sensitive skin. As with any new cosmetic, patch test a small area first to rule out individual sensitivities.