What Is Triisostearoyl Polyglyceryl-3 Dimer Dilinoleate?
Triisostearoyl Polyglyceryl-3 Dimer Dilinoleate is a plant-derived ester created by linking fatty acids from isostearic and dilinoleic acids to a small chain of three glycerin molecules. The result is a large, oil-like molecule that feels silky yet non-greasy on skin. It first appeared in color cosmetics in the early 2000s when formulators wanted a natural alternative to mineral oil that still gave lipsticks and balms a smooth glide. Today manufacturers obtain it through an esterification process that heats the fatty acids with polyglycerin in the presence of a food-grade catalyst, then purifies the mixture so no residual catalyst remains. You will most often spot this ingredient in lipsticks, tinted balms, creamy foundations, high-shine glosses, rich face creams and overnight masks where lasting moisture and a cushiony texture are key.
Triisostearoyl Polyglyceryl-3 Dimer Dilinoleate’s Cosmetic Benefits/Uses
This multitasking lipid improves both the feel and performance of many formulas.
- Skin conditioning: Forms a soft, breathable film that helps trap water in the outer skin layers so dryness and rough patches fade more quickly
- Emollient: Fills in tiny gaps between skin cells which smooths the surface, boosts slip and gives products a luxurious, velvety application
Who Can Use Triisostearoyl Polyglyceryl-3 Dimer Dilinoleate
This lipid suits most skin types including dry, normal and combination because it locks in moisture without leaving a heavy residue. Sensitive skin usually tolerates it well thanks to its large molecular size and low scent profile. Very oily or blemish-prone skin can still use it in well balanced formulas but may prefer lighter products since rich oils can sometimes feel too occlusive.
The ingredient is sourced from plant oils and processed without animal-derived catalysts so it aligns with vegan and vegetarian standards.
Current safety data shows no reproductive or developmental concerns when applied topically. Pregnant or breastfeeding individuals can generally use products containing this ester, but this is not medical advice and anyone expecting or nursing should confirm all skincare choices with a healthcare professional.
Triisostearoyl Polyglyceryl-3 Dimer Dilinoleate does not increase sun sensitivity. It is photostable and can be worn day or night without raising the risk of sunburn.
Potential Side Effects/Adverse Reactions
Responses to topical Triisostearoyl Polyglyceryl-3 Dimer Dilinoleate vary from person to person. The effects below are possible yet unlikely for most users when the ingredient is correctly formulated.
- Mild skin irritation such as redness or itching
- Allergic contact dermatitis in those sensitive to fatty acid esters
- Transient clogged pores or breakouts on very oily or acne-prone skin if the product is overly rich
- Rancid-oil odor or irritation if the product is past its expiry date
If any adverse reaction occurs stop using the product and seek advice from a qualified healthcare professional.
Comedogenic Rating
Rating: 1/5
This low score comes from the ingredient’s large molecular size which mostly stays on the skin surface rather than sinking into pores. Its branched fatty acid structure also keeps it fluid so it is less likely to harden inside follicles. Formulas that pair it with lighter oils or waxes typically remain breakout friendly, though very heavy balms rich in many occlusive oils could still feel too much for extremely oily skin.
In most products Triisostearoyl Polyglyceryl-3 Dimer Dilinoleate is suitable for people prone to acne or breakouts.
One extra note: comedogenicity can climb if the product is old or stored in heat because oxidized oils are more pore clogging, so pay attention to expiry dates.
Summary
Triisostearoyl Polyglyceryl-3 Dimer Dilinoleate acts mainly as a skin conditioning agent and emollient. It forms a light breathable film that slows water loss while its silky texture fills tiny gaps between skin cells creating a smooth cushioned feel. This combination gives lipsticks creams and masks a luxurious glide and longer lasting moisture.
Although not a household name it has become a quiet favorite with formulators looking for plant derived alternatives to mineral oil. You will spot it most often in mid to high end lip products and overnight treatments where a rich yet non greasy finish is valued.
Current data shows it is safe for topical use with very low risk of irritation or systemic issues. As always try a small patch first when using any new product just to be safe.