What Is Trisodium Glycyrrhizate?
Trisodium Glycyrrhizate is a salt form of glycyrrhizic acid, the sweet-tasting compound found in licorice root. Chemically it is the trisodium salt of a complex triterpenoid glycoside, giving it excellent water solubility while retaining the soothing traits of the parent plant. Licorice has been prized in personal care rituals for centuries, but it was only in the late 20th century that chemists isolated glycyrrhizic acid and converted it into its more stable, skin-friendly trisodium form for use in modern cosmetics.
Production starts with extraction of glycyrrhizic acid from dried licorice roots. The extract is purified, then neutralized with a controlled amount of sodium carbonate or sodium hydroxide, creating Trisodium Glycyrrhizate. The resulting powder is filtered, dried, and milled to a fine particle size so it disperses evenly in water-based formulas.
Because it is both gentle and multifunctional, Trisodium Glycyrrhizate appears in a wide variety of products such as calming sheet masks, hydrating serums, everyday moisturizers, after-sun gels, anti-aging creams, scalp tonics, and even fragranced body lotions.
Trisodium Glycyrrhizate’s Cosmetic Benefits/Uses
Formulators reach for Trisodium Glycyrrhizate when they want a single ingredient that can enhance both the feel and the scent of a product.
- Fragrance: Delivers a mild sweet note that can round out the overall scent profile and soften harsher aromatic ingredients
- Skin Conditioning: Helps keep skin supple and comfortable by reducing visible dryness and supporting a balanced moisture barrier which in turn leaves products feeling soothing and non-irritating even on sensitive skin
Who Can Use Trisodium Glycyrrhizate
Thanks to its soothing, water-soluble nature, Trisodium Glycyrrhizate is generally suitable for all skin types including oily, dry, combination and sensitive skin. People prone to redness often appreciate its calming touch, and its oil-free profile means it will not weigh down already oily complexions. Those with a known allergy to licorice root or its derivatives should avoid it since cross-reactivity is possible.
The ingredient is synthesized from plant-derived licorice and neutralized with mineral salts, so it is acceptable for both vegetarians and vegans. No animal-derived processing aids are needed during standard manufacturing.
Current research has not flagged any specific risk for pregnant or breastfeeding women when the ingredient is used topically in cosmetic concentrations. That said this is not medical advice and anyone who is pregnant or nursing should review new products with a qualified healthcare provider before adding them to a routine.
Trisodium Glycyrrhizate does not increase photosensitivity, meaning it will not make skin more prone to sunburn. Normal daytime sun protection habits are still recommended to protect overall skin health.
Potential Side Effects/Adverse Reactions
Side effects from topical Trisodium Glycyrrhizate differ from person to person. The points below outline potential reactions yet most users will not experience them when the ingredient is incorporated correctly by the manufacturer.
- Mild transient stinging or redness on very reactive skin
- Contact dermatitis in individuals allergic to licorice or related plants
- Eye irritation if a product containing the ingredient runs into the eyes
- Excessive dryness when combined with high alcohol or strong exfoliating formulas
If any negative reaction occurs stop using the product and seek advice from a medical professional.
Comedogenic Rating
Rating: 0/5 (non-comedogenic)
Trisodium Glycyrrhizate is a water-soluble salt with no oily or waxy components so it does not sit in pores or form a film that can trap debris. Its typical use level in formulas is low, often below 1%, further lowering any clogging risk. It is therefore considered safe for acne-prone or breakout-prone skin. Because it dissolves completely in water it rinses away cleanly and will not build up on the skin over time.
Summary
Trisodium Glycyrrhizate brings two key perks to cosmetics: a soft sweet scent that rounds out fragrance blends and gentle skin conditioning that helps calm dryness and visible irritation. It does this by drawing on the natural soothing molecules found in licorice root while its salt form makes it easy to blend into water-based products.
While not as famous as hyaluronic acid or niacinamide, this ingredient enjoys steady popularity in Korean and Japanese skin care and is gradually showing up in Western formulas that target sensitivity and redness.
Overall safety is high. The compound is mild, non-comedogenic and rarely triggers reactions except in people with a licorice allergy. As with any new product it is wise to perform a quick patch test before full-face use to be sure your skin agrees with the formula.