What Is Tristearyl Citrate?
Tristearyl Citrate is the cosmetic name for trioctadecyl 2-hydroxypropane-1,2,3-tricarboxylate, a compound created by joining citric acid with stearyl alcohol. Both starting materials come from plants like corn and coconut so the resulting ingredient is considered plant derived. Chemists began experimenting with citrate esters in the 1960s while searching for gentler skin softeners. Tristearyl Citrate soon gained attention because it delivered a velvety feel without leaving a greasy film, which made it attractive to formulators working on modern skin care.
The manufacturing process is straightforward: stearyl alcohol reacts with citric acid under controlled heat in the presence of a catalyst. Water formed during the reaction is removed, leaving a waxy, off-white solid. After cooling and purification the material is milled into a fine powder or pellets that disperse easily into creams and lotions.
You will usually spot Tristearyl Citrate in rich moisturizers, night creams, lip balms, solid cleansing bars, nourishing masks and anti-aging formulas where a smooth afterfeel is important. It can also appear in makeup such as foundations and lipsticks to improve spreadability and comfort.
Tristearyl Citrate’s Cosmetic Benefits/Uses
Here is how Tristearyl Citrate helps a cosmetic product perform better:
- Skin Conditioning – forms a light, occlusive layer that slows moisture loss so skin feels softer and more supple
- Emollient – fills in tiny gaps on the skin surface giving formulas a creamy glide and leaving a silky, nonsticky finish
Who Can Use Tristearyl Citrate
Tristearyl Citrate is generally well tolerated by all skin types including dry, normal, combination and mature skin. Its lightweight occlusive film helps seal in water without feeling heavy so even oily skin can usually enjoy it. Exceptionally acne-prone users might prefer lighter emollients because any waxy ingredient has a small chance of feeling too rich for them.
The ingredient is produced from plant-derived citric acid and stearyl alcohol, making it suitable for vegetarians and vegans. No animal by-products are involved in its manufacture.
No research has linked topical Tristearyl Citrate to problems during pregnancy or breastfeeding. That said, this is not medical advice and anyone who is pregnant or nursing should review all personal care products with a qualified health professional to be extra certain.
Tristearyl Citrate is not known to cause photosensitivity so it does not increase the skin’s tendency to burn in the sun. It also plays well with common actives like retinol, vitamin C and niacinamide, making it a flexible ingredient for most routines.
Potential Side Effects/Adverse Reactions
Reactions to Tristearyl Citrate differ from person to person. The points below outline potential side effects, though most people will not experience them when the ingredient is used correctly in a finished product.
- Mild skin irritation
- Temporary redness or itching in very sensitive individuals
- Rare allergic contact dermatitis for those specifically allergic to citrate esters
- Possible pore congestion in users already prone to clogged pores
If any of these issues develop discontinue use and consult a healthcare professional or dermatologist.
Comedogenic Rating
Rating: 1 out of 5. Tristearyl Citrate is a large ester molecule that sits on the surface to soften and smooth rather than sinking deeply into pores, so it has a low likelihood of clogging them. Its waxy nature can feel a touch rich on very oily complexions, which is why it does not score a perfect zero.
Most people prone to acne can generally use products containing Tristearyl Citrate without flare-ups, although exceptionally breakout-sensitive users may prefer lighter textures.
The ingredient is often blended with other emollients and silicones; if a formula feels heavy the issue is usually the blend as a whole rather than Tristearyl Citrate itself.
Summary
Tristearyl Citrate works mainly as a skin-conditioning emollient that smooths rough patches, improves spreadability and leaves a silky non-greasy afterfeel by forming a thin moisture-sealing film on the surface. It is moderately popular, showing up most in richer creams, balms and lip products where a luxurious glide is wanted but it is not as ubiquitous as classic oils or silicones.
Available research and decades of cosmetic use point to a high safety profile with low irritation risk. Still, every skin is different so patch testing any new product containing Tristearyl Citrate is a smart move.