What Is Undecylenoyl Glycine?
Undecylenoyl Glycine is a skin friendly compound made by joining glycine, the simplest amino acid, with undecylenic acid, an oil-like substance that comes from the breakdown of castor oil. When these two meet they form an N-acyl amino acid that carries both water-loving and oil-loving parts, letting it mix easily into creams and cleansers.
The story of Undecylenoyl Glycine in beauty care started in the early 2000s when formulators searched for gentle yet effective ways to control excess oil and unwanted bacteria on the skin. By linking the long history of undecylenic acid as an antifungal agent with the soothing nature of glycine they created an ingredient that could balance the skin without harshness.
Commercial production is straightforward: undecylenic acid is reacted with glycine in the presence of a catalyst and heat. The result is purified, yielding a white to off-white powder or liquid that dissolves well in the oil phase of cosmetic products.
You will find Undecylenoyl Glycine in a range of oil control or odor control products such as facial cleansers, toners, leave-on spot treatments, deodorant sticks, anti dandruff shampoos, scalp tonics, clay masks and lightweight moisturizers aimed at oily or acne-prone skin. It also shows up in some hair conditioners where a fresh scalp feel is desired.
Undecylenoyl Glycine’s Cosmetic Benefits/Uses
Here is how this multitasking ingredient can improve a formula
- Anti-Seborrheic: helps calm the overactive oil production linked with flaky itchy scalp or shiny T zone giving skin and scalp a more balanced appearance
- Anti-Sebum: limits surface oil so makeup lasts longer and pores look less noticeable
- Antimicrobial: keeps the growth of odor-causing and blemish-forming microbes in check supporting a clearer complexion
- Deodorant: neutralizes the bacteria that create body odor offering a fresh feel in natural deodorant sticks or sprays
- Hair Conditioning: smooths the hair shaft and supports a healthy scalp which can lead to softer strands and less irritation
- Cleansing: its mild surfactant nature helps lift away dirt and oil without stripping the skin’s protective barrier
Who Can Use Undecylenoyl Glycine
Undecylenoyl Glycine is generally well tolerated by most skin types but it shines for those with oily combination or acne-prone skin thanks to its oil balancing and antimicrobial qualities. Normal skin can also enjoy its fresh feel while very dry or highly sensitive skin should proceed with caution since its mild sebum-reducing action could accentuate tightness or irritation if the rest of the routine is not adequately hydrating.
The ingredient is produced by reacting plant-derived undecylenic acid from castor oil with the amino acid glycine so it fits vegan and vegetarian lifestyles. No animal sourced materials or by-products are needed in its manufacture.
Current safety data show no specific risks for pregnant or breastfeeding women when the ingredient is used topically at the low percentages found in cosmetics. Still this is not medical advice and anyone who is expecting or nursing should review all personal care products with a qualified healthcare provider.
Undecylenoyl Glycine does not make skin more sensitive to sunlight and there are no known interactions with sunscreen filters so daily UV protection can be followed as normal.
Potential Side Effects/Adverse Reactions
Reactions to topical Undecylenoyl Glycine differ from person to person. The points below outline potential side effects only and most users will not encounter them when the ingredient is properly formulated and used as directed.
- Mild stinging or burning
- Temporary redness or warmth at the application site
- Dryness or a tight feeling particularly on already dehydrated skin
- Rare allergic contact dermatitis presenting as itching bumps or rash
- Scalp flaking if used in high concentrations in hair products
If any uncomfortable reaction develops discontinue use and consult a healthcare professional or dermatologist
Comedogenic Rating
Rating: 0–1 (very low)
Undecylenoyl Glycine is a small amphiphilic molecule that does not form heavy occlusive films on the skin. Instead it helps dissolve excess oil and discourages bacterial growth, both of which work against pore blockage. Formulas generally include it at low concentrations where it remains lightweight and rinse friendly, further lowering any clogging potential.
Suitable for acne-prone or breakout-prone skin.
Because it is often paired with other oil-controlling or exfoliating agents in the same product, pay attention to the complete ingredient list: some accompanying emollients could raise the overall comedogenic load even if Undecylenoyl Glycine itself is benign.
Summary
Undecylenoyl Glycine is a multitasker that tempers excess sebum, keeps odor-causing and blemish-forming microbes at bay, offers mild cleansing action and leaves hair or skin feeling balanced. It pulls this off by combining the oil-soluble power of undecylenic acid with the skin-friendly profile of glycine, giving it the ability to insert into oily debris then rinse away without stripping.
The ingredient is not a household name like salicylic acid yet it is gaining quiet traction in modern minimalist formulas that promise gentle oil control and microbiome care. You will mostly spot it in niche K-beauty cleansers, natural deodorants and lightweight scalp serums rather than in mainstream drugstore lines.
Overall safety data are favorable, with a low irritation record and no photosensitizing concerns. As with any new cosmetic ingredient it is wise to patch test a product containing Undecylenoyl Glycine before full use just to be cautious.