Va/Butyl Maleate/Isobornyl Acrylate Copolymer: What Is It, Cosmetic Uses, Benefits & Side Effects

Curious about this ingredient? In this article we're explaining exactly what it is and why it's used within cosmetic formulations.
Updated on: June 30, 2025
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We verify all information on this page using publicly available nomenclature standards from The Personal Care Products Council (PCPC), the European Commission's CosIng database and documentation provided directly by ingredient manufacturers. Our analysis is based on technical data from these sources to ensure accuracy and reliability.

What Is Va/Butyl Maleate/Isobornyl Acrylate Copolymer?

Va/Butyl Maleate/Isobornyl Acrylate Copolymer is a man-made ingredient created by linking together several smaller molecules: vinyl acetate, butyl maleate and isobornyl acrylate. The result is a clear flexible polymer that forms a thin film when it dries on skin or hair. It is not taken from plants or animals but produced in a lab through controlled chemical reactions that combine heat pressure and special catalysts to encourage the building blocks to join. This copolymer began appearing in cosmetics in the late 1990s when formulators looked for lightweight alternatives to heavier resins used in hair sprays and long-wear makeup. Today it is made in industrial reactors where the monomers are mixed purified then filtered to remove any leftover catalyst before being dried into a powder or delivered as a liquid dispersion.

You will most often find Va/Butyl Maleate/Isobornyl Acrylate Copolymer in products that need a smooth even film to stay in place such as long-lasting mascaras liquid eyeliners brow gels transfer-resistant foundations tinted moisturizers peel-off face masks and some nail care items. It also shows up in certain sunscreens and primers where it helps the formula resist sweat and water.

Va/Butyl Maleate/Isobornyl Acrylate Copolymer’s Cosmetic Benefits/Uses

This ingredient serves a single key purpose in topical cosmetics.

Film forming: Once applied it dries into a flexible breathable layer that locks pigments or active ingredients onto the surface. This film improves wear time reduces smudging offers light water resistance and gives a smooth even finish without a stiff or sticky feel.

Who Can Use Va/Butyl Maleate/Isobornyl Acrylate Copolymer

The copolymer works for every skin type including dry oily combination and sensitive because it sits on the surface then rinses off without penetrating or clogging pores. People with extremely reactive or eczema prone skin may still want to check formulas for added fragrances or solvents that could be irritating rather than the polymer itself.

Because it is completely synthetic and contains no animal derived raw materials it is suitable for vegans and vegetarians.

No data suggest that this ingredient poses a specific risk during pregnancy or while breastfeeding. It is not absorbed into the bloodstream in meaningful amounts so routine topical exposure is considered low risk. Still this is not medical advice and pregnant or nursing individuals should show any product they plan to use to their doctor to be sure it fits their personal circumstances.

The polymer does not make skin more sensitive to sunlight and can actually help sunscreen actives stay put on the skin’s surface. There are no known interactions with common actives like retinoids vitamin C or exfoliating acids.

Potential Side Effects/Adverse Reactions

Side effects from topical Va/Butyl Maleate/Isobornyl Acrylate Copolymer vary from person to person. The following issues are possible yet uncommon when the ingredient is used at normal cosmetic levels.

• Mild skin irritation – A transient feeling of tightness itching or redness may appear in very sensitive users especially if the product contains high levels of alcohol or fragrance

• Allergic contact dermatitis – Rarely someone may develop a true allergy resulting in persistent redness swelling or small bumps where the product was applied

• Eye stinging or watering – If a mascara liner or spray drifts into the eye the polymer film can cause temporary discomfort

• Flaking or peeling of the film – In makeup or peel off masks an overly thick layer can crack and shed during the day leading to visible flakes

• Acne flare in very clog prone skin – Though the polymer itself is considered low comedogenic heavy buildup from long wear products can trap sweat and sebum contributing to breakouts

If any persistent burning swelling or rash develops stop using the product and consult a healthcare professional.

Comedogenic Rating

Rating: 1 out of 5 (very low)

This polymer sits on the surface in a thin breathable layer and has large molecules that do not sink into pores so it is unlikely to block them. It also lacks oily or waxy components that typically raise clogging risk. For these reasons it earns a very low comedogenic score.

Suitable for acne-prone or breakout-prone skin, provided the rest of the formula is lightweight and non-greasy.

Keep in mind that wearing any long-wear makeup for extended periods without proper cleansing can let sweat, sebum and debris accumulate which may still contribute to blemishes.

Summary

Va/Butyl Maleate/Isobornyl Acrylate Copolymer is mainly a film former. Once applied it dries into a clear flexible film that anchors pigments, sunscreen filters or styling agents, boosting wear time, smudge resistance and light water resistance while feeling light on skin or hair.

It is a behind-the-scenes ingredient favored by formulators for long-lasting mascaras, eyeliners, brow gels, transfer-resistant foundations, peel-off masks and some sunscreens though most shoppers are not familiar with its name.

Safety data show minimal absorption, low irritation potential and virtually no comedogenicity at normal cosmetic levels. Still, when trying any new product it is wise to patch test first to make sure your skin agrees with the complete formula.

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