Vaccinium Myrtillus Stem Extract: What Is It, Cosmetic Uses, Benefits & Side Effects

Curious about this ingredient? In this article we're explaining exactly what it is and why it's used within cosmetic formulations.
Updated on: June 30, 2025
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We verify all information on this page using publicly available nomenclature standards from The Personal Care Products Council (PCPC), the European Commission's CosIng database and documentation provided directly by ingredient manufacturers. Our analysis is based on technical data from these sources to ensure accuracy and reliability.

What Is Vaccinium Myrtillus Stem Extract?

Vaccinium Myrtillus Stem Extract comes from the stems of the wild bilberry plant, also known as Vaccinium myrtillus, a small shrub native to northern forests. While the berries have long been prized for food and folk remedies, cosmetic chemists discovered that the stems hold a rich mix of natural compounds, including polyphenols, flavonoids and trace amounts of anthocyanins. These molecules are valued for their ability to protect the skin surface from everyday environmental stress.

To obtain the ingredient, growers collect and clean the stems after the fruit harvest, then dry and mill them into a fine powder. The powder is soaked in a water or water-glycol blend that pulls the active substances into the liquid. After filtration and gentle concentration, the extract is standardized so each batch delivers consistent performance in a formula.

The extract began appearing in skin care about two decades ago as brands searched for plant based antioxidants that could stand up to processing without losing power. Today it is included in toners for oily skin, daily serums aimed at early signs of aging, sheet masks, lightweight moisturizers, aftershave lotions and targeted treatments meant to refine the look of pores.

Vaccinium Myrtillus Stem Extract’s Cosmetic Benefits/Uses

Brands turn to this plant extract for two main reasons.

  • Antioxidant: Helps neutralize free radicals that form on the skin when exposed to sun, pollution or stress, which can reduce the look of dullness and help keep formulas fresher for longer
  • Astringent: Offers a mild tightening effect that can make pores appear smaller and leave the skin feeling smooth and refreshed

Who Can Use Vaccinium Myrtillus Stem Extract

This extract is mild enough for most skin types, including normal, oily, combination and mildly sensitive skin. Its gentle astringent action can help manage excess oil, while the antioxidant content supports overall skin resilience. Very dry or easily dehydrated skin may notice a temporary tight feeling, so pairing the ingredient with a richer moisturizer can balance things out.

Because the extract is entirely plant based and no animal-derived substances are used during processing, it fits comfortably into vegan and vegetarian routines.

No specific safety flags have been raised for pregnant or breastfeeding women when the ingredient is used topically at the low levels common in cosmetics. That said, this information is not medical advice, and those who are pregnant or nursing should always run their skincare choices past a qualified healthcare professional just to be safe.

Vaccinium Myrtillus Stem Extract does not contain compounds known to trigger photosensitivity, so it will not make skin more prone to sunburn. Standard daily sun protection is still recommended for overall skin health.

Potential Side Effects/Adverse Reactions

Reactions to topical Vaccinium Myrtillus Stem Extract differ from person to person. The points below outline potential side effects, though most users will not experience them when the ingredient is formulated and used correctly.

  • Mild irritation or stinging, particularly on compromised or freshly exfoliated skin
  • Transient redness in individuals with highly reactive skin
  • Dryness or a tight sensation due to the natural astringent activity
  • Allergic contact dermatitis in rare cases of specific plant sensitivities

If any unwanted reaction occurs, stop using the product and consult a healthcare professional if symptoms do not resolve promptly.

Comedogenic Rating

Rating: 0–1 (non-comedogenic to very low)

Vaccinium Myrtillus Stem Extract is a water-based botanical with no heavy oils or waxy residues that could block pores. Its polyphenols and flavonoids are lightweight and readily absorbed or rinsed away, leaving little on the skin that could trap sebum. Formulas using the extract typically rely on gentle solvents like water or propylene glycol rather than richer carriers, further lowering clogging potential.

Suitable for acne-prone and breakout-prone skin.

Keep in mind that the overall comedogenicity of any finished product depends on the full ingredient list and texture. A gel serum with this extract will feel very different from a thick cream that includes it alongside heavier emollients.

Summary

Vaccinium Myrtillus Stem Extract delivers two main benefits: antioxidant protection that helps neutralize everyday free radicals and mild astringent action that can give skin a fresher, tighter feel. These effects come from naturally occurring polyphenols and flavonoids pulled from bilberry stems then standardized for consistent performance.

While not the most famous plant extract on the shelf, it appears in a growing number of toners, serums and lightweight moisturizers aimed at people who want a touch of plant-powered defense without heavy oils.

Topical use is considered safe for most skin types with a very low risk of irritation or pore clogging. As with any new skincare ingredient it is wise to run a small patch test when trying a product for the first time to confirm personal compatibility.

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