What Is Welan Gum?
Welan Gum is a natural gum created when the bacterium Alcaligenes ferments sugars. Chemically it is a long-chain polysaccharide, which means it is made of many sugar units linked together. First studied in the early 1980s as a way to thicken drilling fluids, it soon caught the attention of cosmetic chemists who saw its ability to keep products smooth and stable.
Production starts with a sterile tank where Alcaligenes is given water, glucose and nutrients. As the bacteria grow they release Welan Gum into the liquid. After fermentation the mixture is filtered, the gum is precipitated with alcohol, then washed, dried and milled into a fine white to off-white powder that dissolves easily in water.
Thanks to its stability in both hot and cold formulas, Welan Gum shows up in many cosmetic products. You will find it in moisturizers, anti-aging serums, sheet mask essences, sunscreens, hair conditioners, foundations and even peel-off masks where it helps create a flexible film.
Welan Gum’s Cosmetic Benefits/Uses
Welan Gum offers several formulating perks that improve how a product looks, feels and performs on the skin.
- Binding: Keeps solid particles evenly dispersed so pigments or exfoliating beads do not settle at the bottom of the bottle
- Emulsion Stabilising: Prevents water and oil from separating which keeps creams, lotions and sunscreens smooth over their shelf life
- Film Forming: Dries to a light, flexible layer on skin or hair trapping moisture and boosting longer-lasting hydration
- Viscosity Controlling: Thickens formulas without a heavy feel giving gels and serums that ideal silky glide
Who Can Use Welan Gum
Welan Gum is generally suitable for all skin types. Dry and mature skin benefit from the light moisture-locking film it forms, oily and acne-prone skin appreciate its non-greasy texture, and sensitive skin tends to tolerate it because it is non-irritating and used at very low levels. At this time there are no specific skin types that should avoid it unless an individual knows they are allergic to gums in general.
The ingredient is produced through bacterial fermentation, not taken from animals, so it is considered vegan and vegetarian friendly.
No data shows that Welan Gum poses a risk during pregnancy or while breastfeeding when used topically in cosmetic amounts. This is not medical advice and anyone who is pregnant or nursing should review their skincare routine with a healthcare professional to be safe.
Welan Gum does not make the skin more sensitive to sunlight and it does not interfere with sunscreens or other common actives. It is also compatible with leave-on and rinse-off hair products if you have a sensitive scalp.
Potential Side Effects/Adverse Reactions
Side effects from topical Welan Gum vary from person to person. The points below list potential reactions only, most users will not experience them when the ingredient is used correctly in a finished product.
- Mild redness or itching in people allergic to polysaccharide gums
- Transient stinging if the product accidentally gets into the eyes
- Very rare contact dermatitis on highly reactive skin
If you notice any of the reactions above stop using the product and speak with a healthcare professional.
Comedogenic Rating
Welan Gum has a comedogenic rating of 0. It is a large, water-soluble polysaccharide that sits on the surface in a thin breathable film rather than seeping into pores or mixing with skin oils. Because it is used at very low concentrations and has no oily or waxy nature, it is unlikely to trap sebum or foster the buildup that can lead to blackheads and pimples. This makes it suitable for people who are prone to acne or frequent breakouts. The only time it might pose a pore-clogging risk is if it appears alongside heavier occlusive ingredients that are the true culprits.
Summary
Welan Gum binds particles, stabilises emulsions, forms flexible films and fine-tunes viscosity so products stay smooth, feel silky and lock in light moisture. It accomplishes these jobs because its sugar chains naturally thicken water and create an even network that keeps oils, pigments and actives suspended.
The gum is not as famous as hyaluronic acid or xanthan gum but formulators appreciate its heat stability and elegant skin feel, so it is slowly popping up in newer moisturisers, sunscreens and leave-on hair treatments.
Overall it is considered safe, non-irritating and vegan. Serious adverse reactions are extremely rare. As with any cosmetic ingredient it is smart to patch test a new product first just to be sure your skin agrees with it.