Xanthohumol: What Is It, Cosmetic Uses, Benefits & Side Effects

Exploring the use of Xanthohumol in skincare
Updated on: August 14, 2024
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What is Xanthohumol?

Xanthohumol is a natural compound found in the hops plant, Humulus lupulus, which is more famously known for its role in beer brewing. In the cosmetic world, it’s valued for its skin conditioning properties. You might also come across it under its chemical name, 2-Propen-1-One, 1-(2,4-Hydroxy-6-Methoxy-3-(3-Methyl-2-Butenyl)Phenyl)-3-(4-Hydroxyphenyl)-, (E)-, but it’s most commonly referred to simply as xanthohumol.

So, how is xanthohumol made and how does it work? It’s extracted from the hops plant. The process involves isolating the compound from the hops’ flowers, often using a method that ensures the preservation of its beneficial properties. Once applied in cosmetic products, xanthohumol acts as a potent antioxidant. It helps to protect the skin by neutralizing free radicals, which are unstable molecules that can damage cells and contribute to aging and disease. By doing so, it enhances skin health and contributes to a more youthful appearance.

Who Can Use Xanthohumol?

Xanthohumol is generally suitable for all skin types. It’s particularly beneficial for those looking to combat signs of aging or to protect their skin from environmental stressors. However, if you have sensitive skin or specific allergies, it’s always a good idea to patch test a new product containing this ingredient to ensure there’s no adverse reaction.

When it comes to dietary preferences, xanthohumol is a win for vegans and vegetarians. Since it’s derived from plants (specifically the hops plant), it doesn’t involve animal products or byproducts, making it a great choice for those following a plant-based lifestyle.

Regarding its use by pregnant or breastfeeding women, there isn’t a lot of specific research on xanthohumol’s effects in these situations. As with many cosmetic ingredients, it’s best to consult with a healthcare provider before incorporating products containing xanthohumol into your routine if you are pregnant or breastfeeding. This is a precaution to ensure safety for both mother and child.

Xanthohumol’s Cosmetic Benefits/Uses

The benefits and uses of Xanthohumol in cosmetics, as defined by the International Nomenclature of Cosmetic Ingredients (INCI) and the Personal Care Products Council (PCPC), highlight its effectiveness in various skincare applications. Below are the detailed benefits of Xanthohumol in cosmetic formulations:

  • Antioxidant Properties: Xanthohumol is highly recognized for its potent antioxidant capabilities. Antioxidants are crucial in skincare as they help to neutralize free radicals present in the environment. Free radicals can cause oxidative stress, leading to premature aging of the skin, such as wrinkles and fine lines. By incorporating Xanthohumol into cosmetic products, it helps to protect the skin by limiting the production of free radicals, thus maintaining the skin’s youthful appearance and enhancing skin vitality.
  • Anti-inflammatory Effects: Xanthohumol exhibits significant anti-inflammatory properties, making it beneficial in the treatment of inflammatory skin conditions like acne, eczema, and psoriasis. Inflammation can cause skin redness, irritation, and discomfort. The use of Xanthohumol in cosmetic products can help reduce these symptoms by inhibiting the pathways that lead to inflammation, thereby soothing the skin and improving its overall condition.
  • Skin Brightening: This ingredient is also known for its ability to brighten the skin. Xanthohumol can inhibit the activity of enzymes involved in the production of melanin, the pigment responsible for skin color. By controlling melanin synthesis, Xanthohumol can help in reducing hyperpigmentation, age spots, and uneven skin tone, leading to a more uniform and radiant complexion.
  • Antimicrobial Activity: Xanthohumol has shown antimicrobial properties against a variety of microorganisms. This is particularly beneficial in cosmetic products as it can help prevent the growth of bacteria on the skin, which can lead to acne and other skin infections. By incorporating Xanthohumol, cosmetic products can offer an added layer of protection against microbial infections, keeping the skin clean and healthy.

Potential Side Effects/Adverse Reactions

Side effects and reactions to the topical application of Xanthohumol can vary from person to person. While many individuals may not experience any adverse effects, it is important to be aware of potential side effects that could occur.

  • Skin Irritation: Redness, itching, or swelling at the application site.
  • Allergic Reactions: Symptoms such as hives, rash, or breathing difficulties.
  • Photosensitivity: Increased sensitivity of the skin to sunlight, leading to quicker sunburns or skin damage.
  • Contact Dermatitis: A form of eczema triggered by contact with the substance, causing inflamed, itchy skin.

If you experience any of these side effects while using a product containing Xanthohumol, discontinue use immediately and consult a healthcare provider if symptoms persist or worsen.

While the list of potential side effects might sound extreme or scary, it’s important to note that adverse reactions to Xanthohumol are relatively rare. Most users enjoy its benefits without any negative consequences.

Finally, it’s crucial to perform a patch test before fully incorporating any new cosmetic product into your routine. This simple step can help you avoid unwanted reactions and ensure that the product is suitable for your skin type.

Comedogenic Rating

Comedogenicity refers to the potential of cosmetic ingredients to cause comedones, which are skin blemishes commonly known as blackheads and whiteheads. This is particularly important for individuals with acne-prone skin as certain ingredients can exacerbate or lead to the formation of acne.

Xanthohumol has a comedogenic rating of 0. This rating indicates that it is non-comedogenic and does not clog pores or promote the formation of comedones. The rating is based on the molecular structure and solubility of Xanthohumol, which suggest it does not contribute to the blockage of pores.

Given its non-comedogenic rating, Xanthohumol is suitable for those who are prone to acne and breakouts.

Conclusion

Xanthohumol primarily functions as a skin conditioning agent in cosmetic formulations. While not as popular or widely recognized as some other cosmetic ingredients, Xanthohumol shares similarities with other non-comedogenic and skin-soothing agents, making it a valid choice for inclusion in skincare products aimed at improving skin health and appearance.

The safety of Xanthohumol in cosmetic formulations is well-regarded, with its non-comedogenic property being a significant advantage for use in products targeting sensitive and acne-prone skin types.

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